Painting and finishing tips

Painting can be the most tedious and time consuming part of any boatbuilding project; but if done carefully it can make the most difference. There have been many books and articles written about this subject, but here are a few tips that you may find helpful:

- Make sure you thoroughly read the instructions on the can of paint. They will tell you how much time you have to wait between coats, how long to wait before sanding, application tips, and any health hazards. Remember that the times they give are just guidelines, and are affected by temperature and humidity. Have the proper solvent available for cleanup. Most paint manufacturers put out booklets with tips on using there products; read them carefully
- Traditional marine oil-based paint is a proven product, but the newer two-part polyurethane paints like Imron and AwlGrip are harder, have more gloss, and greater durability. I find Interlux Brightsides polyurethane enamel to be a good compromise between the two, without the toxicity of the two-part polyurethanes.
- When cured, some epoxy can be covered with an oily film called an amine blush that is a by-product of the chemical reaction. This film can be removed by scrubbing with soap and warm water. If left on the surface it can cause some paints to cure incompletely, and may weaken the bond between coats of epoxy.
- Paint will not stick to slick, slippery surfaces. Make sure you lightly sand any surface to be painted, and to sand between coats if the paint has dried completely. Unless you are experienced with marine paints and painting, always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for preparation and priming
- Many people have had good luck with the disposable foam-rubber brushes that are sold at hardware stores. They are inexpensive and give a nice paint surface if used properly.
- Don't brush the paint too much. Once the paint starts to dry, any extra brushing will cause streaks and brush marks
- I generally tape off the top edge of the sheerstrake with ½" masking tape where the breasthooks, inwales, and rubrails will be glued, and prime and paint at least a first coat before installing the solid lumber parts. I also try to get a couple of coats of varnish on the trim pieces before they are installed; it eliminates a lot of cutting in.

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